Omega Seamaster

Launched in 1948, the Seamaster is the oldest collection still in production by Swiss luxury watch manufacturer Omega, and the first choice of secret agent James Bond. The Seamaster was originally designed as a simple all-purpose men's watch with improved water resistance. In 1957, Omega then introduced its first official diving watch, the Seamaster 300. Innumerable civilian, professional, and military divers have since opted for the watch, including the Royal Navy's elite Special Boat Service (SBS).

Along with the legendary Seamaster 300, Omega now offers several sub-collections for men and women within the larger Seamaster line. You can choose from a variety of models in stainless steel, titanium, gold, bronze, ceramic, or platinum. The choice of dial colors is also impressive. Depending on the case and bracelet material, you can choose from classic shades of black and white, as well as colors like blue, green, brown, red, orange, and several other variations.

Omega's depth record has been held by the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional since 2019. The watch dived 10,925 meters (35,843 feet) into the Mariana Trench as part of the Five Deeps expedition.

The Omega Seamaster collection also offers something for fans of vintage diving watches. Early versions of the Seamaster 300 and limited James Bond editions are particularly popular; some of these models also command high prices and offer excellent investment potential.

Omega offers the Seamaster in a wide variety of versions. The Seamaster 300 is the first choice for those looking for a diver's watch with a 1950s or 60s feel. Fans of tool watches with a more modern look will love the Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M and Diver 300M. Other models include the Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M, Bullhead, and Ploprof 1200M, which are particularly striking in terms of design. The Railmaster and retro Seamaster 1948, on the other hand, are sporty dress watches.

Seamaster 300

The Seamaster 300 has been part of the Omega catalog since 1957, and has hardly changed in all that time. The triangular hour indices, numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12 and the arrow-shaped hour hand are particularly distinctive. The current version of the Seamaster 300 has a diameter of 41 mm. The stainless steel version with a black dial and stainless steel bracelet is the standard model. Other versions of the Seamaster 300 are available in gold, stainless steel and gold, titanium, or platinum.

Vintage Omega Seamaster 300 Models

Thanks to the Seamaster 300's long production history, there are plenty of vintage models on the market. The vintage Seamaster 300 ref. 165.024 is particularly popular with collectors, as is the early ref. CK2913. The Seamaster 300 Trilogy released in 2017 looks exactly like the first Seamaster 300 from 1957, but is powered by a modern Master Co-Axial caliber.

Seamaster Diver 300M

The design of the Seamaster 300M is significantly more modern than that of the Seamaster 300. The diving bezel with its curved edges, the broad, skeletonized sword hands, and the wave-like pattern on the dial are striking. Omega offers the 300M in a variety of dial colors, including blue, white, black, and silver. Another difference to the Seamaster 300 is the helium escape valve located at 10 o'clock on the left-hand side of the case. The Diver 300M comes in stainless steel, titanium, gold, or ceramic, and is water-resistant to 300 m (30 bar, 984 ft).

Three-hand versions from the current collection are made of stainless steel or titanium and measure 42 mm across, while ceramic models are slightly larger at 43.5 mm in diameter. Regardless of size, the watches are powered by automatic calibers with a Co-Axial escapement and Master Chronometer certification.

Diver 300M Chronograph

Along with the three-hand models, the Diver 300M line also offers timepieces with a chronograph function. Here you can choose between versions with two or three subdials. Omega uses the ultra-modern Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 9900 in the watches with a bicompax dial, which boasts a 60-hour power reserve and can withstand magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss.

Aqua Terra: An Elegant Seamaster

The Seamaster Aqua Terra is probably the most elegant representative of the Seamaster family. With its straightforward, uncluttered design, this watch, which is water-resistant to 150 m (15 bar, 492 ft), can be considered a sporty dress watch. The majority of the collection consists of three-hand watches, but there are also chronographs and watches with a second time zone. Omega also offers special versions for women in its Ladies Collection. There's a wide variety of materials to choose from, including stainless steel, stainless steel and gold, and gold.

The Aqua Terra Ultra Light not only has a lightweight titanium case, but large parts of the hand-wound caliber 8928 Ti are also made of this material. The result is a watch that weighs just 55 grams, including the textile strap.

About the Planet Ocean and Planet Ocean Ultra Deep 600M

The Seamaster Planet Ocean is a relatively young line in the Omega catalog. This diver's watch, water-resistant to 600 meters (60 bar, 1,969 feet), was launched in 2005 and has since grown into an extensive collection. It also has a helium escape valve at 10 o'clock and looks like a modern re-interpretation of the Seamaster 300. In the three-hand version, the series includes watches with diameters of 43.5, 39.5, and 37.5 mm.

Along with the three-hand models, the line also offers timepieces with a chronograph or GMT function in your choice of stainless steel, gold, ceramic, or titanium. Once you've chosen a case material and functionality, you'll need to decide if you're willing to pay more for a model with an anti-magnetic Master Chronometer movement. There are also a number of dial color options, namely black, white, gray, blue, brown and mother-of-pearl. The manufacturer also offers bezels in red and orange, as well as diamond-set versions.

In 2022, Omega presented the Planet Ocean Ultra Deep 6000M, which is water-resistant to a depth of 6,000 meters (600 bar, 19,685 ft). The watch is 45.5 mm across and made of the company's proprietary O-Megasteel. This material is stronger than conventional steel, non-ferromagnetic, and less prone to corrosion.

Ploprof 1200M: Water-Resistant to 1,200 m (3,940 ft)

"Ploprof" stands for "plongeur professionnel," which is French for "professional diver." The Seamaster Ploprof more than does justice to this name. Two things stand out in addition to its dimensions (55 x 48 mm) and angular design: the crown at 9 o'clock, which is surrounded by a massive crown protector, and the diving bezel with a security pusher at 2 o'clock. Thanks to its automatic helium escape valve and depth rating of 1,200 m (120 bar, 3,937 ft), current models easily meet professional diving requirements.

About the Bullhead and Railmaster

The Seamaster Bullhead is a coveted collector's item. Two push-pieces flank the main crown at 12 o'clock on the top of the wedge-shaped case, giving the watch the look of a bull's head. Another crown at 6 o'clock is used to operate the inner bezel. This extraordinary chronograph made its debut in 1969. After decades of quietly developing a cult following, many watch enthusiasts were delighted when Omega reintroduced the Bullhead in 2013, virtually unchanged.

Even though the Railmaster isn't a diving watch, it's still part of the Seamaster family. When Omega first presented this timepiece in 1957, it was aimed first and foremost at people whose work included regular exposure to strong magnetic fields. Magnetic fields can have a major effect on a watch's performance. Omega solved this problem by housing the movement in an interior cage made of soft iron, which protected it against magnetic fields of up to 1,000 gauss. Thanks to their Master Chronometer movements, current models are anti-magnetic up to 15,000 gauss.

Stylish ladies' versions of the Seamaster can be found in the Aqua Terra collection, which includes models in rose gold, some of which are lavishly set with diamonds.

The price of an Omega Seamaster depends largely on the model you choose. It's often worth buying a newer used watch, as many of these models are traded below list price, making them even more affordable second hand. Seamaster prices start at just a few hundred dollars for certain vintage models. Current gold versions and watches with special complications are particularly expensive; the Aqua Terra GMT Worldtimer, for example, changes hands for around 75,000 USD.

Prices for the Seamaster 300

You can buy a stainless steel Seamaster 300 in mint condition for just over 6,400 USD on Chrono24. The titanium version with a black dial will set you back about 6,100 USD. The two-tone timepieces in stainless steel and gold require an investment of around 12,200 USD. The titanium and gold versions are slightly less expensive and can be purchased for around 10,900 USD. If you'd prefer a watch with a red or yellow gold case and matching link bracelet, the price jumps to around 27,800 USD. Leather bracelet versions are considerably less expensive at around 10,700 USD. Platinum Seamaster 300 models change hands for around 50,300 USD.

Prices: Vintage Seamaster 300

Vintage specimens of the Seamaster ref. 165.024 offer excellent investment potential: the watch has almost tripled in value over the past ten years from around 2,830 to 8,960 USD.

If you're interested in acquiring the first Seamaster 300 ref. CK 2913, plan on spending between 16,000 and 38,000 USD, depending on its condition. You could save yourself quite a sum by buying a Seamaster 300 Trilogy instead. Launched in 2017, this watch is a faithful reissue of the CK 2913, but powered by a modern Master Co-Axial caliber. The price point for this watch is only about 7,800 USD.

How much does a Seamaster 300M cost?

The current Master Chronometer variants made of stainless steel are priced at around 5,100 USD. When precious metals come into play, prices rise quickly. For example, a two-tone stainless steel and yellow gold watch on a rubber strap costs about 7,300 USD. The combination of rose gold and titanium will set you back about 13,300 USD. Prices for models made of black ceramic start at around 8,200 USD.

Prices for the Omega Seamaster 300M Chronograph

Prices for this 44-mm tricompax model start at around 5,500 USD on Chrono24. The stainless steel version demands an investment of approximately 7,600 USD, while the two-tone steel and gold model changes hands for just under 14,000 USD. The titanium, rose gold, and tantalum version will set you back about 20,800 USD.

Prices for the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra

Second-hand quartz versions of the Aqua Terra in stainless steel can be purchased for prices starting at around 3,100 USD. Prices for older three-hand watches with automatic movements start at around 3,800 USD. The current ladies' model with a stainless steel case (ref. 220.10.28.60.55.001) is available for around 3,500 USD. Automatic models vary in price depending on the dial color and material. The 41-mm stainless steel version with a black dial costs around 5,600 USD, while the version in rose gold with a white dial requires an investment of approximately 33,000 USD. Plan to spend about 4,300 USD for one of the colorful 38-mm stainless steel watches in the Shades collection.

Omega expanded the collection in summer 2021 to include three-hand versions with a small seconds. You should budget between 6,100 and 35,000 USD for one of these, depending on whether you prefer a stainless steel, solid gold, or two-tone variant.

A stainless steel, three-hand Aqua Terra with a second time zone powered by the Co-Axial caliber 8605 costs approximately 4,000 USD. The two-tone version demands an investment of approximately 6,900 USD, while the rose gold version will set you back just over 20,000 USD. For a titanium Aqua Terra with a certified Master Chronometer caliber, you can expect to spend some 6,400 USD.

The Aqua Terra GMT Worldtimer has a world time display and shows 24 time zones simultaneously. The stylized Earth in the center of the dial is particularly striking. You can own this watch in stainless steel on a stainless steel bracelet for around 8,100 USD, while the 18-karat rose gold version requires an investment of 26,800 USD.

If you're looking for an Aqua Terra with a chronograph function, plan to spend at least 5,800 USD. Models that combine a chronograph and GMT function demand another 1,100 USD. Prices for watches with gold and diamonds are significantly higher and range from 10,700 to 30,000 USD. The Aqua Terra Ultra Light changes hands for roughly 48,000 USD.

Prices for the Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M

The three-hand models are the most affordable. A 43.5-mm watch in titanium with a blue dial and matching leather strap costs approximately 4,600 USD. However, Omega does not equip these watches with Master Chronometer calibers. Anyone looking for a timepiece with state-of-the-art technology will find affordable alternatives among the 39.5 and 43.5-mm stainless steel editions. Prices for these models sit between 6,200 and 6,700 USD.

A stainless steel Planet Ocean with a GMT function powered by a certified Master Chronometer caliber will set you back about 8,500 USD. The 45.5-mm black ceramic variant costs around 11,200 USD.

Chronographs in the collection also have a diameter of 45.5 mm. A titanium chronograph will set you back about 10,300 USD. More expensive models fall into a wide price range, depending on the material. Ceramic models sell for about 11,600 USD, while two-tone chronographs require an investment of about 18,000 USD. Gold editions go for around 31,600 USD.

An example of the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep with a stainless steel case and bracelet changes hands on Chrono24 for roughly 12,000 USD.

Prices for the Ploprof 1200M

Prices for a stainless steel Ploprof 1200M come in at around 8,800 USD. If you'd prefer the version with a titanium case, the price rises to around 11,600 USD. A two-tone model in titanium and Sedna gold will set you back about 16,400 USD. Fans of vintage watches will want to take a look at the Ploprof 600 from the 1970s. As its name suggests, this timepiece is water-resistant to 600 m (60 bar, 1,969 ft). You can call a model in good condition your own for around 7,200 USD.

Prices for the Seamaster Bullhead & Railmaster

The new edition of the Seamaster Bullhead changes hands for between roughly 8,400 and 9,000 USD, while well-maintained models from 1969 sell for about 10,200 USD. Collectors may also be interested in limited-edition models, like the one dedicated to the 2016 Olympic Games in Rio. You can rope yourself a Bullhead Rio for about 8,600 USD.

The Railmaster is a simple, three-hand timepiece in stainless steel – a reflection of its purpose as a functional and reliable tool watch. Plan to spend approximately 4,000 USD on a new 40-mm edition with a black, blue, or silver dial. The limited 1957 Trilogy series is very similar to the original Railmaster and will set you back about 6,600 USD. If you'd prefer a vintage watch from 1957, you'll have to invest approximately 19,300 USD.

Omega Seamaster: Price Performance

Standard Omega Seamaster models are not typically a great investment, but they hold their value very well, so if you buy one cheaply, you probably won't lose much if you sell it later on.

Limited editions like the James Bond variants offer good potential for value appreciation. The Seamaster 300M in gold (ref. 210.62.42.20.01.001), for example, increased in value by around 10% between 2021 and 2023. Ref. 210.22.42.20.01.004 even recorded an increase in value of around 30% and cost approximately 10,000 USD at the end of 2023.

As described above, vintage Seamasters are sought after by collectors, which means they have good potential to appreciate over time.

How long is the wait time for an Omega Seamaster?

There is no general answer to the question of how long the waiting period is for an Omega Seamaster. Whether you need to be put on a waiting list or whether a model is available immediately depends largely on the watch you want. Popular models that are produced in large quantities are usually available immediately. However, for rarer models made of precious metals or set with diamonds, retailers may have to put you on a waiting list. In general, the question of availability and waiting times is not as relevant for the Omega Seamaster as it is for the industry leader and competitor Rolex and the Rolex Submariner. This is another reason why some models in the Seamaster collection are an excellent alternative to the Rolex Submariner.

The most well-known Omega Seamaster wearer is fictional British secret agent James Bond. In the 1995 film "GoldenEye," Pierce Brosnan wears a standard Diver 300M with a quartz movement and blue dial. This movie marked the Bond film debut of both Brosnan and the Seamaster. You can usually find this watch on Chrono24 for around 2,800 USD.

Since then, Omega has released limited-edition Bond watches for each new entry in the franchise. This includes the Diver 300M Casino Royale, Seamaster 300 Spectre, and Planet Ocean Skyfall. Each watch offers the same technology as their respective standard editions, but features 007-themed dials or engravings that make them especially popular among fans and collectors. Prices for Bond watches depend on the exact model and its condition and range from 6,200 to 11,200 USD.

Omega announced several watches in anticipation of the 2020 Bond movie "No Time to Die." One is the titanium Diver 300M 300 Edition, which costs about 7,900 USD. The manufacturer also released three versions of the Diver 300M James Bond Limited Edition. The main difference between these three timepieces is their material. You can choose from stainless steel, 18-karat gold, or a platinum and gold alloy. The stainless steel version is limited to a run of 7,007 pieces and demands roughly 10,900 USD. You can also buy it as part of a set with the gold model, of which only 257 copies exist. Together, these two watches will set you back over 55,000 USD as of late 2023. Finally, the extremely rare platinum James Bond Numbered Edition is the most expensive model, with a list price of 51,900 USD.

What is the depth rating of the Omega Seamaster?

The Omega Seamaster's level of water resistance depends on the model. For most variants, this can be derived from the model name, but it helps to have a list:

How much does an old Omega Seamaster cost?

The price of older Omega Seamaster models depends largely on the reference, its availability, and its condition. While early models in age-appropriate condition can be purchased for as little as a few hundred dollars, well-preserved examples of popular references such as the 165.024 are significantly more expensive, costing well over 30,000 USD.

Why is the Omega Seamaster so expensive?

Like Rolex, Omega is an upmarket luxury watch brand. Watch prices are a result of the quality of craftsmanship, the materials used, the utilization of in-house movements, and the high level of vertical integration. As a watch manufacturer, Omega enjoys a remarkable level of prestige in the industry, which is reflected in the price of the watches. For some Seamaster models, the high price is also a reflection of their value as collector's items, for example limited editions and rare vintage models.