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Tudor Heritage Black Bay Automatik Bronze 79250BM Leder
TOP
Tudor Heritage Black Bay Automatik Bronze 79250BM Leder
RM15,391
Seller
Uhren2000 GmbH
311
DE
Breguet Marine 18k Yellow Gold  Automatic 26mm Ladies Diamond...
TOP
Breguet Marine 18k Yellow Gold Automatic 26mm Ladies Diamond...
RM54,175
Seller
WT Time Pieces
36
UK
Ateliers deMonaco Tourbillon Oculus 1297 Titane
Straight from the manufacturer
Ateliers deMonaco Tourbillon Oculus 1297 Titane
RM277,893
BrandBoutique Member
Les Ateliers deMonaco SARL
Richard Mille Felipe Massa Flyback Chronograph RM 011-03
TOP
Richard Mille Felipe Massa Flyback Chronograph RM 011-03
RM787,745
Seller
H&Y Jewellery
22
UK
Rolex Lady-Datejust President  18k White Gold  Never Worn
TOP
Rolex Lady-Datejust President 18k White Gold Never Worn
RM40,296
Seller
Harley's Time LLC
63
US
JeanRichard Paramount Pack 3 watches
TOP
JeanRichard Paramount Pack 3 watches
RM89,068
Seller
Fernando Monge SA
102
ES
Rolex Explorer II cream
TOP
Rolex Explorer II cream
RM40,378
Seller
chrono v8 ltd
 
UK
Cartier 1940s CARTIER TRIPLE CALENDAR EUROPEAN WATCH COMPANY...
TOP
Cartier 1940s CARTIER TRIPLE CALENDAR EUROPEAN WATCH COMPANY...
RM86,854
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
11
US
Rolex DAYTONA  COSMOGRAPH  116508 Green Dial 40mm Yellow Gold...
TOP
Rolex DAYTONA COSMOGRAPH 116508 Green Dial 40mm Yellow Gold...
RM125,878
Free shipping
Seller
Plus Watch - Luxury Watches
2552
IT
Tudor PRINCE OYSTERDATE RANGER
Tudor PRINCE OYSTERDATE RANGER
RM5,225
Seller
Private Seller
MY
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin
RM61,754
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
382
UK
Ateliers deMonaco Tourbillon Oculus 1297
Straight from the manufacturer
Ateliers deMonaco Tourbillon Oculus 1297
RM315,895
BrandBoutique Member
Les Ateliers deMonaco SARL
Patek Philippe Calatrava Manual 18K/750 Noram Buckle Buterfly
TOP
Patek Philippe Calatrava Manual 18K/750 Noram Buckle Buterfly
RM20,422
Free shipping
Seller
Pawndeluxe
72
NL
TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11 Steve McQueen
TOP
TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11 Steve McQueen
RM23,329
Seller
Harley's Time LLC
63
US
Franck Muller Master Calendar -Gold 18k/750lLeder 2852...
TOP
Franck Muller Master Calendar -Gold 18k/750lLeder 2852...
RM34,440
Seller
Dreamwatch Uhrenhandel
169
DE
Rolex 4919 serpico y laino bubble back
TOP
Rolex 4919 serpico y laino bubble back
RM20,901
Seller
chrono v8 ltd
 
UK
Cartier VINTAGE PARIS 40/50s HELM WRISTWATCH, Fuly numbered
TOP
Cartier VINTAGE PARIS 40/50s HELM WRISTWATCH, Fuly numbered
RM18,179
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
11
US
Bulgari Carbon Gold Oro Rosa Via Dei Condotti 10 Roma 102248
TOP
Bulgari Carbon Gold Oro Rosa Via Dei Condotti 10 Roma 102248
RM9,021
Free shipping
Seller
Plus Watch - Luxury Watches
2552
IT
Ball Fireman Racer DLC
Ball Fireman Racer DLC
RM2,747
Seller
Private Seller
MY
Breguet Hora Mundi 5727
TOP
Breguet Hora Mundi 5727
RM217,089
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
382
UK
Ateliers deMonaco Admirale Chronographe Flyback Classique
Straight from the manufacturer
Ateliers deMonaco Admirale Chronographe Flyback Classique
RM130,158
BrandBoutique Member
Les Ateliers deMonaco SARL
Rolex Datejust 36 Gelbgold Ref. 116138  Weiß
TOP
Rolex Datejust 36 Gelbgold Ref. 116138 Weiß
RM55,531
Seller
Uhren2000 GmbH
311
DE
Rolex Datejust Rose Gold MOP Diamonds
TOP
Rolex Datejust Rose Gold MOP Diamonds
RM56,455
Seller
Harley's Time LLC
63
US
Cartier Santos Dumont Paris Square 18K Yellow Gold 15751
TOP
Cartier Santos Dumont Paris Square 18K Yellow Gold 15751
RM14,013
Free shipping
Seller
Pawndeluxe
72
NL
Rolex Day-Date Everose 118205
TOP
Rolex Day-Date Everose 118205
RM94,293
Seller
Filipucci Juweliers
391
NL
Vacheron Constantin ASYMMETRICAL 1972 PRESTIGE DE LA FRANCE  #...
TOP
Vacheron Constantin ASYMMETRICAL 1972 PRESTIGE DE LA FRANCE #...
RM151,489
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
11
US
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Microtor  Ultrapiatto 40mm
TOP
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Microtor Ultrapiatto 40mm
RM42,178
Free shipping
Seller
Plus Watch - Luxury Watches
2552
IT
Omega 145.012 Speedmaster Cal. 321 with DON Bezel
Omega 145.012 Speedmaster Cal. 321 with DON Bezel
RM32,237
Seller
Private Seller
MY
Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton
TOP
Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton
RM114,007
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
382
UK
Ateliers deMonaco Tourbillon Oculus 1297 Titane
Straight from the manufacturer
Ateliers deMonaco Tourbillon Oculus 1297 Titane
RM277,893
BrandBoutique Member
Les Ateliers deMonaco SARL
Hamilton Pan Europ
TOP
Hamilton Pan Europ
RM3,821
Seller
WatchNation Limited
53
UK
Stowa Fliegeruhr Klassik Sport Baumuster B
Stowa Fliegeruhr Klassik Sport Baumuster B
RM4,902
Seller
STOWA Uhren
 
DE
Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine 8006-102-3A/926
TOP
Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine 8006-102-3A/926
RM76,751
Free shipping
Seller
Iceberg Jewelers
137
US
Rolex Datejust II Diamonds 116334
TOP
Rolex Datejust II Diamonds 116334
RM37,765
Seller
Filipucci Juweliers
391
NL
Vacheron Constantin Very Rare 1970s  Lozenge Pave Diamond Dial...
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Very Rare 1970s Lozenge Pave Diamond Dial...
RM260,562
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
11
US
Audemars Piguet Jules Extra Thin Oro Rosa  Rose Gold NEVER...
TOP
Audemars Piguet Jules Extra Thin Oro Rosa Rose Gold NEVER...
RM38,948
Free shipping
Seller
Plus Watch - Luxury Watches
2552
IT
Richard Mille RM11-03 FQTPT
Richard Mille RM11-03 FQTPT
RM748,000
Seller
Private Seller
MY
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk
RM237,800
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
382
UK
Ateliers deMonaco Admirale Chronographe Flyback Classique
Straight from the manufacturer
Ateliers deMonaco Admirale Chronographe Flyback Classique
RM114,007
BrandBoutique Member
Les Ateliers deMonaco SARL
IWC 18K Gold vintage Mens cal 403 International Watch Co 1974
TOP
IWC 18K Gold vintage Mens cal 403 International Watch Co 1974
RM7,596
Seller
qualityextra
 
HU
Stowa Marine Original blue limited no. 146/200
Stowa Marine Original blue limited no. 146/200
RM5,662
Seller
STOWA Uhren
 
DE
Porsche Design Huawei Smartwatch - EU
Straight from the manufacturer
Porsche Design Huawei Smartwatch - EU
RM2,351
BrandBoutique Member
Porsche Lizenz- und Handelsgesellschaft mbH & Co. KG
Breitling Chronomat 44 Gold / Steel CB0110
TOP
Breitling Chronomat 44 Gold / Steel CB0110
RM37,765
Seller
Filipucci Juweliers
391
NL
Sinn 103 St Sa RB Classic Watch Sondermodell
TOP
Sinn 103 St Sa RB Classic Watch Sondermodell
RM11,638
Seller
Classic Watch
16
DE
Bulgari Carbon Gold Automatic 40mm Blue Dial T  102634
TOP
Bulgari Carbon Gold Automatic 40mm Blue Dial T 102634
RM9,021
Free shipping
Seller
Plus Watch - Luxury Watches
2552
IT
Seiko Grand Seiko
Seiko Grand Seiko
RM12,500
Seller
Private Seller
MY
Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second Stainless Steel 39.6mm
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second Stainless Steel 39.6mm
RM33,347
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
382
UK
Ateliers deMonaco Ronde de Monte-Carlo Homme
Straight from the manufacturer
Ateliers deMonaco Ronde de Monte-Carlo Homme
RM95,006
BrandBoutique Member
Les Ateliers deMonaco SARL
IWC 14K Gold Pocket watch International Watch Co taschenuhr 1919
TOP
IWC 14K Gold Pocket watch International Watch Co taschenuhr 1919
RM7,596
Seller
qualityextra
 
HU
Stowa Partitio Klassik weiß Automatik
Stowa Partitio Klassik weiß Automatik
RM2,765
Seller
STOWA Uhren
 
DE
Rolex Submariner 1680 red box and paper
TOP
Rolex Submariner 1680 red box and paper
RM114,002
Seller
chrono v8 ltd
 
UK
Richard Mille RM 011-03
Richard Mille RM 011-03
RM532,810
Seller
Private Seller
MY
H.Moser & Cie. Very Rare Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept...
H.Moser & Cie. Very Rare Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept...
RM201,986
Seller
Private Seller
MY
Rolex Datejust
Rolex Datejust
RM20,901
Seller
ichrono.ie
 
IE
Omega Speedmaster Professional Pre-Moon , Cal 312 + Brac 1039
TOP
Omega Speedmaster Professional Pre-Moon , Cal 312 + Brac 1039
RM42,396
Free shipping
Seller
WatchesNorte
45
ES
Rolex Yacht-Master II
Rolex Yacht-Master II
RM55,888
Seller
Private Seller
MY
Ateliers deMonaco Admirale Chronographe Flyback Classique
Straight from the manufacturer
Ateliers deMonaco Admirale Chronographe Flyback Classique
RM135,384
BrandBoutique Member
Les Ateliers deMonaco SARL
Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea
Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea
RM54,853
Seller
Private Seller
MY
Oris Flight Timer
Oris Flight Timer
RM2,989
Seller
Private Seller
MY
Panerai Radiomir 3 Days Acciaio 47 mm
TOP
Panerai Radiomir 3 Days Acciaio 47 mm
RM38,762
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
382
UK
IWC vintage mens 14K Gold/Steel Yacht Club automatic watch 1970
TOP
IWC vintage mens 14K Gold/Steel Yacht Club automatic watch 1970
RM9,496
Seller
qualityextra
 
HU
Seiko BFS Big Freakin Seiko
Seiko BFS Big Freakin Seiko
RM4,040
Seller
Private Seller
MY
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Mechanical Watches: Technical Masterpieces

The mechanical watch is one of humanity's most important cultural innovations. For centuries, watches have been keeping track of time. Today, there is a myriad of environmentally-friendly mechanical watches running precisely without a battery.

Highlights

  • Watchmaking art - a fine piece of craftsmanship on your wrist
  • Incredible variety: a watch for every budget and taste
  • No batteries required: manual and automatic calibers
  • Famous diving watches such as the Rolex Submariner
  • Inexpensive automatic watch: Tissot PRS 516

Mechanical Watches: A Cultural Revival

Watch lovers and collectors have been enthusiastically celebrating mechanical watches for decades. Wristwatches from Rolex or Patek Philippe are considered some of the most coveted luxury watches there are, and for good reason. Both manufacturers produce mechanical timepieces that are valuable and maintain their worth. Some vintage models and limited editions even increase in value over the years.
However, there was a time when mechanical watches had a difficult time surviving. With the rise of inexpensive quartz watches in the 1970s, many watch manufacturers found themselves in extreme hardship. Some brands were forced to quit and have since disappeared; today, they are only known by watch experts. Before the quartz boom, mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches were everyday items. If you wanted to know the current time, you needed a watch, and at that time, most had a mechanical movement. However, since quartz watches were less expensive than their mechanical siblings in the mid-1970s, quartz timepieces almost completely wiped mechanical ones off the map.
Mechanical watches experienced a comeback in the beginning of the 1980s, however. Watch lovers and collectors rediscovered the charm of a ticking mechanical movement, and felt able to accept deviations of seconds or minutes. However, it was really about the technology and precision engineering inside the watch. Since most manufacturers switched to making quartz watches, fans of mechanical watches had to find these timepieces at flea markets, auctions, and in leftover stock. In those days, it was easy to get a good bargain. That changed a few years later when the demand for old mechanical watches exceeded the supply. Traditional watch manufacturers noticed this change and began to offer mechanical watches in their collections once again. New brands and manufacturers also began to spring up in abundance, such as the German brand Nomos. Roland Schwertner founded this business in 1990, shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall.
Classic watchmaking has been experiencing a renaissance and a completely unexpected boom in sales. Wristwatches have transformed from a basic commodity to a status symbol for both men and women.

Buying Advice

Introductory Mechanical Watches

There is an abundance of mechanical watches, from inexpensive pre-owned or new models to mid-priced new watches to exclusive pieces which can cost upwards of a million euros. You can find pre-owned vintage watches from brands such as Seiko for less than 100 euros . These watches are often in good condition and are an inexpensive introduction to the world of mechanical watches. You can also find new watches from Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in the 100 - 200 euros price range. There are many manufacturers, such as Junkers or Zeppelin, that use Japanese movements from Miyota in their introductory models. Miyota is Citizen's caliber department.
Swiss mechanical watches are also available at inexpensive prices. A used, vintage Tissot watch costs between 100 and 400 euros. A new Tissot PRS 516 , one of their most famous and popular models, costs around 500 euros. A highlight in this collection is the Powermatic 80 variant, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. It's available for around 700 euros; usually, watches with long power reserves cost a few thousand euros. With an added stopwatch function, a used PRS-516 costs around 1,000 euros. New watches from this series cost around 1,600 euros. Mechanical watches from Certina, Hamilton, or Longines are in a similar price range to Tissot's.

Luxury Mechanical Watches from Omega and Rolex

The Swiss watch manufacturer Omega has an excellent reputation in the watch industry. Their timepieces are defined by their innovative technology, appealing designs, and an excellent price-performance ratio. One of Omega's most popular models is the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This chronograph was the first to reach the Moon. Pre-owned models in very good condition are available for around 2,500 euros. New, the Speedmaster Professional costs at least 3,000 euros. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy Award Limited Edition have doubled in value: originally, the watch cost 5,900 euros, while it now costs 12,000 euros new.
Rolex is probably the most famous watch brand worldwide. There's no other brand that stands for luxury and prestige like Rolex does. The Submariner and the Daytona are two of the most sought-after Rolex models. The bicolor Daytona is available pre-owned starting for around 8,500 euros. Pre-owned Daytonas made of stainless steel, however, cost at least 10,000 euros. New, the bicolor model costs 10,000 euros; a new stainless steel model costs around 14,000 euros. Stainless steel Rolex watches are especially in demand and thus maintain a more stable value. The Paul Newman Daytona is also quite popular. This model can be identified by its contrasting dial edges and subdials. The numbers on the dial are in an Art Deco style. Models with reference number 6239 are particularly rare. If they feature a Paul Newman design, these watches can easily cost over 100,000 euros.
The Rolex Submariner, one of the first diving watches ever produced, is available pre-owned for around 4,500 euros. New models without a date display and the distinctive date magnifier cost about 6,000 euros. With a date display, the Submariner costs around 7,000 euros. A vintage Submariner with reference number 1680 and red writing on the dial costs between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. It earned its nickname "Red Sub" thanks to its characteristic red text.

Manual Winding Mechanical Watches

Every mechanical movement has multiple gears. In each movement, the energy for the movement of the wheels comes from a specific storage. In large grandfather clocks, these are weights attached to chains, and the chains must be pulled in order to wind the movement. Pocket watches and wristwatches, on the other hand, have mainsprings which can be wound via a key or a crown. The potential energy stored in the wound mainspring is released to the train in a controlled fashion. Mainsprings were also what made it possible to downsize movements. Another pioneering invention was the concept of crown winding, which made easy-to-lose keys obsolete. One of the first pocket watches with crown winding came from Louis Audemars. The business introduced this watch feature in 1838. You can also set the hands using the crown.
A mechanical movement functions very simply in theory. The mainspring receives its energy via the crown, winding stem, and wheels of the winding system. In order to prevent the mainspring from suddenly unrolling, there's a small stopwork. The train reduces the high force of the mainspring. The train's transmission is calculated so precisely that the seconds wheel makes a full rotation every minute. The escapement is located at the end. It's comprised of a pallet and an escape wheel. The escapement prevents the train from going out of control, and it ensures the watch keeps running by forwarding tiny force pulses to the balance wheel. The balance wheel keeps the pace of the movement, oscillating back and forth. It's comprised of the balance rim and balance spring, which is the beating heart of every mechanical caliber. Without the balance spring, the balance wheel along with the entire movement would stop moving after a short time. Thus, the escapement and oscillation systems form the base of every mechanical watch.
The motion train is located under the dial. Generally, this reduces the center wheel's number of revolutions by one-twelfth. The center wheel makes one rotation on its own axis every 60 minutes. Thus, the hour hand makes one full rotation every 12 hours.
Several different manufacturers are still producing manual winding mechanical calibers, such as Junghans, Nomos, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Technical Details of Manual Winding Watches

  • Movement design allows for flat cases
  • Manual winding
  • Runs without a battery for up to 8 days

Automatic Mechanical Watches

The invention of automatic winding revolutionized the mechanical watch, as automatic watches wind themselves just by being worn. The regular morning ritual of winding your wristwatch ceased to exist. In order for the watch to automatically wind, a rotor is used. Thanks to the constant force of gravity, it's always being pulled towards the center of the Earth. When you move your arm up and down, the rotor rotates around in the case and winds the mainspring.
Winding occurs uni- or bidirectionally, depending on the movement. A bidirectional winding system has the advantage that the movement's winding rotor is wound to the right and to the left. A unidirectional winding system powers the movement by winding it in one direction. Therefore, it takes longer to fully wind the watch. The Pellaton winding system is an especially efficient winding system. It winds the movement bidirectionally, using small movements of the oscillating mass. The inventor of the Pellaton winding system was Albert Pellaton, the technical director at the International Watch Company from 1944 to 1966.
Both winding systems have a so-called reduction gear. This converts the fast movements of the rotor into slower ones with a higher torque. The end of the mainspring is not directly connected to the barrel. Rather, the end is connected to the so-called slipping spring so that the mainspring doesn't break off. When the movement is fully wound, the slipping spring slides along the inner wall of the barrel.
Mechanical watches with an automatic caliber have many advantages to offer. For one, they're convenient, as they don't need to be wound by hand. They also don't require batteries to run, making them generally more environmentally friendly than quartz watches. Generally, automatic movements are also more precise than manual movements, as the oscillating mass provides constant tension to the mainspring. That involves constant torque, which positively affects the amplitude. Amplitude is a term referring to the degree of rotation the balance wheel moves per oscillation.
Amongst watchmakers, the in-house, automatic Rolex calibers are considered some of the best, most robust, and most precise movements in existence.

Technical Details of Automatic Watches

  • Wind automatically while being worn
  • Often more precise than manual winding watches
  • Environmentally friendly: no battery

Mechanical Watches with Special Complications

Most mechanical watches limit themselves to displaying the time and the date. Automatic winding is one of the most common complications utilized in watches. A complication is a function of a mechanical movement that goes beyond displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds. Watchmakers also differentiate between small and large complications. Small complications are, for example, date or day of the week displays or power reserve indicators. A diving watch's rotatable bezel, moon phase display, or a GMT watch's second time zone are also small complications. Complications like minute repetition, perpetual calendars, and large and small striking works are considered large complications . A stopwatch function is also a large complication. In comparison to a perpetual calendar, a stopwatch function is similarly intricate, but more common and much less expensive.
The Swiss manufacturer Patek Philippe is known for their especially complicated watches. Their 1932 Graves Supercomplication pocket watch, as well as the Calibre 89 from 1989, are considered some of their most intricate pieces. The Graves Supercomplication, a special project for the New York banker Henry Graves, Jr., has an impressive 24 complications. Among these complications are a perpetual calendar, double chronograph to time intervening periods, and different astronomical displays. In 1989, the Calibre 89 replaced the Graves Supercomplication as the most complicated pocket watch in the world. The Calibre 89 has 33 different functions and remains one of the most complicated pocket watches in the world to date. It has a full perpetual calendar, a split-seconds chronograph, an indicator for the moon's age and phases, astronomical functions, a minute repeater, an alarm, and both a grande and petite sonnerie.
One of the most complicated wristwatches in the world is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime with 20 complications. The timepiece has multiple acoustic complications, such as a minute repeater, petite sonnerie, grand sonnerie , an alarm with time strike, and a perpetual date repeater. The watch can also function as an alarm. It can even chime the time. Furthermore, it displays a second time zone, a perpetual calendar, power reserve indicators for the going train and strikework, a day and night display, and a moon phase display. The caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, which powers the Grandmaster Chime, is comprised of 1,366 pieces. The watch's red gold case is very finely chiseled, and in order to display all of the complications, the watch has a dial on the front and back side. Patek Philippe calls this "double face." There are only seven Grandmaster Chime watches in the world, one of which is located in the Patek Philippe Museum. This extravagant watch costs around 6.4 million euros.

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