Rolex Oyster Perpetual

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual has over 90 years of history to look back on and is an undisputed classic. It is the epitome of a Rolex watch and the perfect companion for every occasion. The 26 and 31-mm models were designed with women in mind, while the 34, 36, and 39-mm versions make fantastic unisex watches.

The Oyster Perpetual collection is defined by its discreet, no-frills design. Rolex has been crafting the cases out of 904L stainless steel for several years, though some vintage models come in yellow gold. There's a wide range of dial colors to choose from, including olive green, red grape, and champagne. The manufacturer also offers more conventional color options like blue, black, and gray.

Most models feature line or bar indices, though there are a few versions with Arabic or Roman numerals. Each dial also has Rolex's famous five-pointed coronet at 12 o'clock. Rolex mounts the case on a three-piece link Oyster bracelet. While modern bracelets feature the patented Easylink system for adjusting the size, the design has otherwise remained the same since the 1930s.

Rolex equips each Oyster Perpetual with one of their proven in-house calibers. Current models like the Oyster Perpetual 39 use the caliber 3132 with the Paraflex shock protection system, while unisex watches rely on the 3130 without the Paraflex system. The caliber 2231 powers the smaller, 26-mm women's editions.

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 ref. 114300 is a highly-coveted watch and costs between 5,900 and 6,600 USD. This stainless steel timepieces comes with a rhodium, blue, or red grape dial.

The 36-mm ref. 116000 is also available with different dial options. This model demands about 5,900 USD in mint condition, while pre-owned pieces change hands for roughly 5,300 USD.

The 34-mm ref. 114200, on the other hand, is slightly more affordable at 5,300 USD new and 4,700 USD used.

If you're on the market for a women's watch, you may be interested in the refs. 177200 and 176200. The former is 31 mm in diameter and available in six dial colors. You can also choose from different types of hour markers. Prices for this timepiece range from 4,700 to 5,400 USD.

The 176200 measures 26 mm in diameter and also comes in six dial colors, including green. You can purchase a never-worn model for about 5,100 USD, while used watches sell for around 3,700 USD.

In late summer 2020, Rolex announced 14 new Oyster Perpetual models, including the first versions with 41-mm cases. The 41-mm edition is available with a black, red, blue, turquoise, green, yellow, or silver dial. These timepieces boast the new in-house caliber 3230, which also powers the 2020 Submariner No Date models. This movement has a 70-hour power reserve and features Rolex's high-precision Chronergy escapement, which is almost entirely resistant to magnetic fields.

These larger Oyster Perpetuals bear the reference number 124300. The version with a silver dial and yellow gold indices is especially classic. You can call this or any of the other 41-mm editions your own for a list price of 5,900 USD.

Rolex also launched several new variants of the 36-mm Oyster Perpetual (ref. 126000). These watches are available with the same dial colors as the 41-mm model, as well as in an additional hue: candy pink. The in-house caliber 3230 ticks away inside these timepieces. Rolex lists this version for 5,600 USD.

If 36 or 41 mm is too large, you may prefer one of the 28, 31, or 34-mm models. You can find the 34-mm editions under the reference number 124200. This watch comes with your choice of a blue, black, silver, or rose dial and has an official list price of 5,300 USD.

The 31-mm ref. 277200 is available in all nine of the colors mentioned above for the price of 5,200 USD. Finally, the 28-mm Oyster Perpetual (ref. 276200) comes with a black, silver, or blue dial and sells for 5,100 USD.

Those looking for a golden Oyster Perpetual will have to turn to pre-owned vintage models. One example is the ref. 6634 from the 1950s. Thanks to its thick gold plating, this watch has earned the nickname "Golden Egg."

The "Golden Egg" is 34 mm in diameter and available with a white or gold dial. Its power comes from the Rolex caliber 1030 with automatic winding in both directions. This movement also has a manual winding option and appears in early Submariner models, including the legendary ref. 6538. The dial features 11 applied indices, as well as Rolex's five-pointed coronet at 12 o'clock. Prices for a well-maintained 6634 fall between 2,900 and 4,200 USD.

Rolex produced various women's Oyster Perpetual models from the 1970s to the 1990s. These vintage timepieces all have reference numbers beginning with "6719." Popular examples include the refs. 67193, 67194, and 67198. You'll find options in both 18-karat gold, as well as two-tone editions with a stainless steel case and yellow or white gold bezel. Each case is either 24 or 26 mm in diameter, while the dial comes in black, white, gold, or champagne, depending on the case and bracelet/strap material. The different models are also available with applied line, Roman, or diamond indices.

Early 6719 watches contain the Rolex caliber 2030, which was later replaced by the 2130. These automatic movements also power {model-53,Lady-Datejust models} from the same period. Both calibers boast chronometer certification from the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). Prices depend on the watch's material and condition and range from 3,500 to 8,900 USD.

In 1931, Rolex introduced the first watch movement to feature a perpetual rotor that winds the spring using the wearer's motion. The mechanism was patented in 1932 and is the source of the second part of the Oyster Perpetual's name. Very little has changed in the meantime, however, while the first perpetual rotor wound unidirectionally, bidirectional self-winding movements have been the standard since the 1940s. Other manufacturers have long since adopted this technology as well.

About the In-House Calibers

Due to the many different case sizes, Rolex uses various movements in the Oyster Perpetual collection. The caliber 3132 powers the 39-mm version with reference number 114300; the 3132 also ticks away inside the Explorer. This movement has a bidirectional rotor and is renowned for its precision. According to Rolex, it deviates by no more than two seconds a day from the reference time. Therefore, it easily passed all tests necessary to achieve COSC certification. Finally, the 3132 has a stop-seconds mechanism, meaning you can set the time to the exact second by pulling out the crown.

Another defining feature of the 3132 is its Parachrom hairspring made of an anti-magnetic zirconium-niobium alloy. This important component is ten times less affected by shocks than conventional hairsprings. Furthermore, Rolex's Paraflex shock protection system protects the movement in extreme conditions.

Rolex equips the 34-mm editions with the in-house caliber 3130 and the 26-mm versions with the caliber 2231. Both movements are largely on par with the larger caliber 3132 in terms of precision and power reserve. The 2231 also powers the 31-mm Oyster Perpetual. All three calibers are highly precise and come with COSC certification.

Historic Success: The Oyster's Journey Across the English Channel

In the 1920s, Rolex looked to the hearty oyster when naming their new watch collection. Oysters seemed a perfect choice, as these underwater creatures' outer shells protect them from the conditions experienced below the waves. At the time, Rolex was a pioneer in the field of water-resistant watches. The first version of the Oyster case premiered in 1926. On October 7, 1927, English swimmer Mercedes Gleitze wore a Rolex Oyster as she became the first Englishwoman to swim the English Channel. Gleitze's feat required her to swim for around fifteen hours in cold water. The Oyster survived the journey just fine, confirming its position as the first water-resistant watch.

The words "Oyster case" have since become an established term in the watch world. However, it doesn't just apply to the Oyster Petpetual, but rather all Rolex watches with a similar design. Distinctive characteristics include a solid monobloc middle case and a screw-down case back. The back has a fluted edge, which allows watchmakers to open the case for repairs and maintenance using a special tool. These robust watches feature a Twinlock crown and are water-resistant to 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft). The final result is the perfect combination of sportiness and elegance.