Rolex Day-Date

Rolex unveiled the original Oyster Perpetual Day-Date in 1956. It was the first wristwatch to ever feature both the date and the unabbreviated day of the week on its dial, thus underscoring the Geneva-based company's role as an innovator in the industry. Furthermore, Rolex released this model alongside the then-new "President" bracelet. This bracelet combines the Oyster bracelet's three-link look with the hemispherical links made famous by the Datejust and its Jubilee bracelet.

The Datejust debuted seven years before the Day-Date, and the two models are strikingly similar. Both have an Oyster case, a narrow fluted bezel, a simple dial, and a Cyclops lens above the date display at 3 o'clock. However, thanks to its day display at 12 o'clock and President bracelet, there's no mistaking the Day-Date for its closely-related cousin. Another difference is the range of materials, as the Day-Date is only available in precious metals like platinum and yellow, white, or rose gold.

Over the years, Rolex has produced many different variants of the Day-Date. For Watches and Wonders 2024, the brand with the crown expanded the range once again. The ombré dials, characterized by a gradual shift from light to dark and previously only used on the Day-Date 36, are now also available in a variety of colors on the Day-Date 40. The Day-Date 36 now features faceted, unconnected Roman numerals and faceted hour-markers, which were previously reserved for the 40-mm model. The collection also includes many more diamond-set models like the Day-Date 36 in Everose gold with a green-blue dial, diamond indices, and a bezel set with 60 trapeze-cut diamonds.

The Rolex Day-Date has a reputation for being a status symbol, mainly due to the fact that the watch has enjoyed great popularity with heads of state, business tycoons, and mainstream celebrities from the very beginning.

Reasons to Buy a Rolex Day-Date

• Available exclusively in 18-karat gold or platinum
• Date display, with the day of the week written out in full
• Three-piece link President bracelet
• In-house caliber 3255 with a 70-hour power reserve
• Prestigious timepiece with potential to appreciate in value

The Day-Date has been a part of the Rolex catalog for more than 65 years without interruption. The basic design of the watch has remained virtually unchanged, yet the range of variations is enormous.

Particularly close to the original: the Day-Date 36 in gold and platinum

If you'd like a modern watch with the classic Day-Date design, you should take a closer look at the yellow gold Day-Date 36 ref. 128238 with a fluted bezel. Like the rest of the collection, this model is available in a wide range of options. There's everything from simple versions with golden sunburst dials and baton indices to luxurious variants with diamond-studded bezels and gem-set "pavé" or "iced-out" dials.

Other popular variants of the ref. 128238 feature ombré dials that go from light in the middle to dark around the edge. They also feature diamond indices to mark the hours. Color options include green and chocolate brown.

Rolex also offers the Day-Date 36 in various versions in white or rose gold, such as the white gold Day-Dateref. 128239 with a blue ombré dial.

The rose gold Day-Date ref. 128345RBR exudes opulence on account of its intricate details. It has a mother-of-pearl dial with diamond hour markers, and precious gems adorn the bezel and middle links of its Oyster bracelet.

A typical example of a Rolex Day-Date made of platinum is ref. 128236. The watch features an ice-blue sunburst dial, which Rolex traditionally reserves exclusively for platinum watches. Alternatively, you can opt for versions with a silver, dark blue, or pink dial.

Bold Colors: Day-Date 36 in Green, Orange, or Turquoise

In spring 2023, Rolex expanded the Day-Date 36 collection to include models with colorful stone dials in carnelian, turquoise, or aventurine. Watches with the orange carnelian dial have a yellow gold case, while the watch with the shimmering green aventurine dial is made of rose gold and features a diamond-set bezel. The Day-Date 36 with a turquoise dial is made of platinum.

Rolex also surprised the watch world with a "jigsaw" version of the Day-Date, with an enamel dial based on a colorful puzzle and displaying emojis instead of the date, as well as words like "Love," "Happy," or "Gratitude" instead of the days of the week. The watch is available in red, yellow, or white gold.

Day-Date II and Day-Date 40

At the beginning of the new millennium, the call for a larger Day-Date with a contemporary diameter grew louder and louder. In 2008, Rolex responded by introducing the 41-mm Day-Date II. Along with its new size, the Day-Date II also features a new movement: the caliber 3156, which is equipped with the blue Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock protection.

In 2015, Rolex replaced the Day-Date II with the Day-Date 40. As the name implies, this version measures only 40 mm in diameter. The manufacturer equips this watch with the caliber 3255, which has a 70-hour power reserve.

If you'd prefer something more colorful, check out ref. 228235. This Day-Date 40 is made of rose gold and has an olive green sunburst dial with Roman numerals.

Highlights within the Day-Date 40 collection include the 950 platinum versions, particularly the ref. 228396TBR with an ice blue dial, diamond indices, and a diamond-set bezel.

Rolex presented some new dial options for the Day-Date 40 at Watches and Wonders 2023. Technically, the new models are identical to those of the previous generation, but now, along with Roman numerals and diamond indices, baton indices are also an option.

Vintage Rolex Day-Date Models

Due to the long history of the watch, there are plenty of vintage models of the Day-Date in circulation. Models from the 1950s and 60s are particularly sought-after by collectors and Rolex enthusiasts. The caliber 1055 sets the pace in these timepieces. The ref. 6611 with a yellow gold case and gold dial falls into this category. Another example is the ref. 6612, which is also made of yellow gold but has a polished bezel and a silver dial.

Various versions of models from the 1970s can be found on Chrono24. The yellow gold ref. 1803, for example, which is powered by the caliber 1556. Unlike its predecessors, this movement has a stop-seconds function. At the end of the 1970s, Rolex introduced the caliber 3055, which offers a quick-set date function and powers the ref.18038, among others.

The quartz crisis of the 1970s and 80s prompted Rolex to produce quartz-powered Day-Dates in 1977. You can easily recognize these models, including the white gold ref. 19019, thanks to their more angular cases and the word "Oysterquartz" inscribed on their dials. These watches are fairly rare and popular among collectors.

Rolex Datejust: Popular Variants at a Glance

• Rolex Day-Date 36 Gold: 36 mm in diameter; available in rose gold, white gold, or yellow gold; various dial colors (e.g., white, black, blue, green, silver, gold, pink, carnelian, aventurine)
• Rolex Day-Date 36 Platinum: 36 mm in diameter; platinum case and bracelet; various dial colors (e.g., ice blue, silver, white, pink, dark blue, turquoise)
• Rolex Day-Date 40: 40 mm in diameter; available in yellow, white, or rose gold; various dial colors (e.g., white, black, anthracite, olive green, silver, gold, chocolate brown, ice blue, salmon)
• Rolex Day-Date II: 41 mm in diameter; available in yellow, white, or rose gold; various dial colors (e.g., white, black, anthracite, olive green, silver, gold, blue)
• Rolex Day-Date Pavé: 36 or 40 mm in diameter; available in rose gold, white gold, yellow gold, or platinum; "iced out" dial with full diamond setting

Vintage Day-Dates from the 1970s change hands for as little as roughly 8,200 USD. If you're looking for an Oysterquartz Day-Date or a Day-Date Bark from the late 70s and early 80s, be prepared to spend between 4,400 and 5,500 USD more.

Models from the current collection require a significantly larger investment. The 40-mm white gold ref. 228239 is one such watch, with the blue dial version costing over 48,000 USD on Chrono24. If you're looking for a slightly smaller timepiece, the yellow gold Day-Date ref. 128238 measures 36 mm in diameter, features a champagne dial, and requires an investment of approximately 44,600 USD.

Fans of platinum should take a look at the ref. 218206. This 41-mm timepiece features a polished bezel and sells for over 88,000 USD in mint condition. Those who want to push the envelope by purchasing a highly exclusive Rolex model will love the ref. 228396TBR. This model is especially striking, thanks to its ice blue dial and diamond-studded bezel, and comes with a hefty price tag of around 139,000 USD.

Day-Date: List Price vs. Market Price

Rolex's official list prices and the prices charged on the open market are usually significantly different; you should be prepared to pay anywhere from 5% to 35% more when purchasing on the open market, depending on the model. On the other hand, you won't have to wait for a long time at an official Rolex dealer. Depending on the model, wait times can range from a few months to several years.

How has the Rolex Day-Date performed in terms of investment?

In recent years, almost all variants of the Day-Date have increased in value, making these watches an attractive alternative investment. Between April 2021 and April 2024, different variants of the Rolex Day-Date increased in value by an average of between 9% and 35%.

Who wears the Rolex Day-Date?

The Day-Date is fittingly nicknamed the "Rolex President," having been worn by US Presidents Dwight D. Eisenhower, Lyndon B. Johnson, Franklin D. Roosevelt, and John F. Kennedy, as well as other heads of state such as Fidel Castro and Pope John Paul II.

Other well-known public figures with a Day-Date in their watch collection include Warren Buffett, Elton John, Drake, and Conor McGregor.

How much does a Rolex Day-Date cost?

Prices for the Rolex Day-Date on Chrono24 range from 8,100 to 141,000 USD, depending on the age and condition of the watch. As a rule of thumb, a worn Day-Date costs on average 5% to 20% less than a comparable unworn model.