With all the technical advances, design gimmicks, and brand hype in the world of luxury watches, it can be easy to lose sight of the purpose of a watch – that is, displaying the time. A watch without hands is possible but pointless (aside from watches with digital displays, of course). In this article, we take a closer look at how watch hands developed and what types of hands there are.
From One to Two: How Watch Hands Multiplied
The earliest watch hands were quite literally only a shadow of themselves. Sundials were used as early as 3,500 years ago and continued to be used well into the 19th Century. They consisted of a rod that was aligned with the earth’s axis and cast a shadow over a marked area. The characteristic arrow shape of watch hands was derived from the rod’s shadow and markings on ancient water clocks (Greek: clepsydra). This design can be found on the first tower clocks from the 15th Century as well.
The first timepieces displayed time using one hand on a scale or dial, indicating the hour. Until the end of the 17th Century, sundials were used to set mechanical timepieces, which were less accurate then.
The invention of the balance spring by Christiaan Huygens and the development of the hand mechanism by Daniel Quare were major advances. They improved the accuracy of watches to the point where it was possible to tell the time more precisely using a minute hand. However, it wasn’t until the 18th century that two-handed models became more common.
The Size and Design of Hands
Until the Renaissance, the hour hand was typically longer than the minute hand. Today, the sizes of watch hands can vary based on manufacturer. However, the proportions of watch hands are largely based on the golden ratio. According to this standard, the hour hand should ideally be one-third the length of the minute hand. The seconds hand is longer than the hour and minute hands and is balanced by a small weight on its axis in the center of the watch.
The hands are connected to the movement by the center wheel pivot and secured by a plate. The mechanism is designed with a certain amount of play so that the hands can still move and be adjusted on the dial without resistance.
The highest quality hands are manufactured in Switzerland by Aiguilla in Biel, Estima in Grenchen, and Universo in La Chaux-de-Fonds. However, the hands are finished by the manufacturer with the brand’s signature touch, giving its timepieces a recognizable look with unique hands and decorations.
Watches With Four or More Hands
Despite the recent trend among some manufacturers to reintroduce models with only one hand, two- and three-hand models remain the standard. But there are also watch models with four or more hands, for example chronographs, which often have additional hands for various subdials. A fourth hand is also frequently used on GMT watches to indicate a second time zone.
Different Types of Watch Hands
After the wristwatch became an everyday item, the number of different types of hands increased. At their peak, some companies offered nearly 1,000 types of hands. Below is a brief overview of the different types of hands available.
Baton Hands
Baton hands are also called stick hands. They are straight and offer enough space for a luminous coating. Stick hands are often found on sports watches, which are reliable companions at home and on the road, thanks to their great legibility. Audemars Piguet’s classic, theRoyal Oak, features baton hands as part of its classic design.
Lance Hands
The name is derived from the hand’s pointed shape, which is reminiscent of a small lance (French: lancette). If the corners at the top of the hand are rounded into a teardrop shape, it can also be called a “feuille” or leaf hand. This design is often used for classic dress watches like the1815 by A. Lange & Söhne.
Lozenge Hands
The shape of lozenge hands is very similar to that of lance hands. The widest part of the pointer is located in the middle and the overall shape is reminiscent of an elongated rhombus. TheIWC Pilots Chronograph features lozenge hands.
Sword Hands
Sword hands, or “dauphine” hands, have a wide base and taper gradually from the base to the tip. Like lance hands, sword hands are mainly found on luxury dress watches like theClifton by Baume & Mercier.
Breguet Hands
Abraham Louis Breguet is considered one of the most important watchmakers in history. Breguet’s inventions include the first automatic watch and the first wristwatch. The hands bearing his name are not only found on Breguet watches, but also in the brand’s logo. The have a distinct look, with circular gaps in the upper part of the hand.
Unique Hand Styles
Rolex developed its own hand shape for theSubmariner,Yacht-Master, andExplorer series. Because these watches were originally designed for professionals who spend time in low-light conditions, Rolex wanted to give the hands a large surface area of luminescent material. The problem, however, was that the material, which was applied at the time in liquid form, ran the risk of cracking when it dried if it was applied over too large a surface area. Rolex solved this problem by dividing the surface into smaller sections. This resulted in the signature Rolex hour hand with a circular bit at the tip. Due to their Y-shape, the hands soon earned the nickname “Mercedes hands.” This design was also adopted by other manufacturers as it improved the readability of the hour and minute hands.
But Rolex isn’t the only manufacturer to design special hands for its watches. Cathedral and Louis XV hands are two other rare types of hands. And there are numerous other styles – in fact, too many to cover here. However, this list has touched on the most important and most common types of watch hands.
Another Watch Hand Function: Clockwise Rotation
In addition to the time, the hands also indicate the direction in which the watch is moving. Nowadays, it is taken for granted that hands turn to the right. We even refer to that rotation as “clockwise”, which is now synonymous with right-hand rotation. But it wasn’t until the 16th century that right-hand rotation became standard. Until then, watches that turned to the left were just as common as those that turned to the right.
It is believed that “clockwise” rotation became the standard because it resembled the course of the shadow on sundials in the northern hemisphere. Since the development of watches mainly took place there, that way of reading a clock also prevailed. On a side note: The word “wise” is used not because it is somehow more logical that the hands turn clockwise, but because the word “wise” originally meant “direction” or “way.” In the southern hemisphere, the hands of a sundial would be read in the opposite direction.
