Tradition and innovation: The watch industry is constantly navigating between these two drives. The contrast is what makes this sector particularly interesting for many. Historically, it has been strongly influenced by traditional handcraft and classic designs, which makes it seem conservative in many respects. However, there have also been significant innovations, particularly in recent decades. One area that has seen a lot of innovation is choice of materials. The 22nd element in the periodic table is just one example of this. With the symbol Ti, this material is in the spotlight. Titanium is known for its strength, lightness, and corrosion resistance. It was first used in military aviation in the 1940s and early 50s to optimize the heat resistance and weight of aircraft. Titanium has also played a major role in space travel and shipping. Lightness, strength, and corrosion resistance are the strongest arguments in favor of titanium. But where does titanium rank against the competition? This question is an important one to answer to better understand the advantages and possible applications of titanium in the watch industry.
| Titanium | Ceramic | Carbon | |
| Pros |
|
|
|
| Cons |
|
|
|
The many positive properties of titanium make the material very attractive for the watch market. It makes it possible to produce timepieces that can withstand enormous stress without weighing down your wrist. Titanium also stands out from stainless steel visually with its matte surface and blue/gray shimmer. However, this means that titanium is a little less elegant than polished and shiny stainless steel.
Which titanium watches deserve more attention?
1. Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titan Ref. L3.802.1.53.6
The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titan combines traditional watchmaking craftsmanship with modern materials technology. Its Grade 5 titanium case makes it particularly light (97 g to be exact), robust, and durable – perfect for everyday adventurers and frequent flyers. With a diameter of 39 mm and a unidirectional rotating ceramic bezel with a 24-hour scale, it offers a stylish and understated GMT display. There is no lack of functionality with this watch! The black dial with applied, luminous indices and hands ensures excellent legibility. The red GMT hand enables the simultaneous display of a second time zone and is well integrated into the dial. The hands and indices also make the watch particularly attractive to fans of vintage looks. Retro look on the outside, but state-of-the-art technology on the inside – a winning combination for many manufacturers. The Zulu Time is powered by the in-house movement L844.4, an automatic movement with COSC certification and a power reserve of 72 hours. Thanks to a silicone hairspring, it is particularly resistant to magnetic fields. The 100 m (328 ft) water resistance makes the Zulu Time Titan an ideal companion for everyday wear and travel.
2. IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Titanium IW328904
Originally designed by Gérald Genta in the 1970s, the Ingenieur is world-famous and falls into the highly competitive category of steel sports watches with an integrated bracelet. It is, therefore, hardly surprising that there is a titanium model variant – that’s simply par for the course with a sporty model series. The IWC Ingenieur with the reference IW328904 features a 40-mm case made of extremely hard Grade 5 titanium. The striking, brushed surface with polished accents, e.g., on the outer edge of the bezel ring, give the watch a more elegant appearance than the Tudor Pelagos or Omega Seamaster 300M, for example. The textured, gray dial with applied indices and Super-LumiNova coating ensures excellent legibility and stands out with its diamond pattern – a sophisticated detail and eye-catching feature of the watch. Inside, the IWC-manufactured 32111 caliber runs reliably. Plus, the impressive power reserve of 120 hours is a major plus. Thanks to the soft iron inner case, the movement remains protected against magnetic fields – a nod to the original engineering spirit of the watch, which was first released in its original form in 1955. The fully integrated titanium strap with finely adjustable folding clasp is functional and also sporty and elegant. With a water resistance of 100 m (328 ft), the IW328904 is not only beautiful to look at, but also very versatile for everyday use.
3. Tudor Pelagos 39 M25407N-0001
When we talk about titanium watches, there’s one brand/model that cannot be missing. This watch is probably the titanium watch that has received the most attention in recent years, and not just because it won the GPHG Award in 2023. The TudorPelagos 39 with the reference M25407N-0001 is a modern, versatile diving watch that combines the brand’s sporty heritage with an elegant aesthetic. With its 39-mm titanium case, which weighs just under 105 g, it is only imperceptibly heavier but still just as robust as the Grand Seiko below. The Pelagos 39 therefore meets the requirements of a diver’s watch. The satin-finished surface gives the watch a sporty yet understated look. In contrast to the Grand Seiko, the matte surface and the gray sheen of titanium are particularly striking on this watch. The black dial with a sunburst finish provides a subtle reflection, while the luminous indices and hands treated with Super-LumiNova ensure excellent legibility – even in deep waters. The unidirectional rotating ceramic bezel with luminescent scale reinforces the professional outdoor character of the watch. Despite its compact size, the Tudor Pelagos has a pleasant presence on the wrist. Inside is the MT5400 in-house caliber, a COSC-certified automatic movement with a power reserve of approx. 70 hours and high magnetic resistance. With a water resistance of up to 200 m (656 ft), the Pelagos 39 is an ideal diver’s watch for everyday and professional use. The titanium bracelet with T-Fit clasp offers precise adjustments for maximum comfort, while an additional rubber strap provides sporty versatility. The Tudor Pelagos 39 is thus the typical titanium watch – robust, with a slightly hardy look, but still with a certain lightness and discretion.
4. Grand Seiko Snowflake SBGA211
The Seiko “Titanium” from 1982 is considered the world’s first titanium watch. It is, therefore, only natural that we should also look to the traditional Japanese manufacturer among our candidates. Our eye falls on the Grand Seiko with the reference SBGA211. Also known as the “Snowflake,” this watch is particularly well-known and popular for its dial. The fine, textured surface is reminiscent of the freshly fallen snow in the Japanese mountains, where Grand Seiko’s design studio is located. The unusual design is complemented by filigree hands and applied indices, which are handcrafted and perfectly polished in typical Grand Seiko style. The highly polished titanium case weighs just 100 g and makes the SBGA211 particularly lightweight and durable. Grand Seiko’s famous Zaratsu polishing could even be applied despite the particularly hard material. With a diameter of 41 mm and a water resistance of 100 m (328 ft), the watch is suitable for everyday use, but its elegance makes it a perfect choice for more stylish occasions. Inside the watch is the innovative Spring Drive caliber 9R65, a hybrid technology that combines mechanical precision with an electromagnetic control system. The result is an exceptionally precise rate accuracy of +/- 1 second per day and a smoothly gliding second hand.
5. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Titanium (Ref. 210.90.42.20.01.001)
The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Titanium (Ref. 210.90.42.20.01.001) is a professional diver’s watch with exceptional technology and a striking vintage design. Its 42-mm case is made of lightweight Grade 2 titanium, which is known for its robustness and corrosion resistance. Omega’s links to space travel are obvious, and the use of titanium in a Seamaster 300M is very authentic. Speaking of authenticity: You won’t find the wave pattern on the dial that is otherwise typical of the Seamaster 300M on this 007 special edition. Instead, the watch shines with a reduced and somewhat more technical look. Reflections are largely avoided by the titanium – but light still plays a role in this watch. The skeletonized hands with their applied indices are coated with Super-LumiNova, ensuring optimum readability under water. The unidirectional rotating ceramic bezel with aluminum diving scale reinforces the sporty character of the watch. Omega goes all-in here with titanium and creates a very striking combination of the gray-matte shimmer of the material and the faux patina – vintage lovers swoon, while others shake their heads. You have to like toolwatches to appreciate the design of this watch. The watch is powered by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 8806, which has been certified by METAS and offers maximum precision and resistance to magnetic fields. With a power reserve of 55 hours, it is a reliable companion for everyday wear and dives to depths up to 300 m (984 ft). The sandblasted titanium bracelet with folding clasp and striking mesh look ensures a high level of comfort and the look of a real secret agent’s watch. At 93 g, the watch just missed being the lightest model on our list, but it is still considerably lighter than the stainless steel Seamaster 300M variants, which weigh in at around 150 g.
