Breitling and Longines are among the best-known Swiss watch brands. Both traditional manufacturers produce high-quality timepieces, however, they appeal to different target groups. While Breitling is primarily known for its striking pilot’s and diving watches, Longines stands for a blend of classic elegance and sportiness. Breitling and Longines both enjoy long histories and excellent reputations worldwide. In this article, we’re presenting the two brands in a little more detail. Which is your favorite?
Breitling vs. Longines: History
Breitling was founded in 1884 by Léon Breitling. The brand quickly made a name for itself as a specialist in precision chronographs. For years, Breitling had a major influence on the development of modern timepieces and presented its first wrist chronograph in 1915. Léon Breitling’s grandson Willy took over the company in 1932 and began producing pilot’s watches in 1938. Since then, the brand has been synonymous with timepieces used in civil and military aviation. Under the direction of Willy Breitling, the Chronomat, Premier, Navitimer, and Superocean lines were created in the 1940s and 50s, all of which are still well-known today. It was not until 1979 that Willy Breitling left the company in the wake of the quartz crisis. After Breitling was taken over by the pilot and entrepreneur Ernest Schneider, the manufacturer produced exclusively quartz watches until the end of the 1990s. When demand for mechanical watches increased at the turn of the millennium, Breitling changed tack again and began producing timepieces equipped with mechanical calibers from the Swiss movement manufacturer ETA. CVC Capital Partners Investment Group took over the company in 2017. Since then, Breitling has operated under the leadership of CEO Georges Kern, who has already proven himself in the watch industry as CEO of IWC. Kern has given Breitling a completely new brand image.
Longines is the world’s oldest registered watch brand and can look back on an impressive history. The brand was founded in 1832 by Auguste Agassiz and quickly established itself as the epitome of precision and elegance. The French brand name Longines, from les Longines, means “the long meadows.” The name and well-known winged hourglass logo were officially registered in 1889. Longines presented its first wrist chronograph in 1913, two years before Breitling. In the mid-1920s, the manufacturer presented its first three-hand watch with a GMT function. This period also saw the presentation of the first chronograph with a flyback function. The Longines Lindbergh Hour Angle followed in 1931. The 1940s and 50s saw numerous innovations and watch models that are still well-known today. One of these models appeared in 1959 and is known today as the Legend Diver. Although Longines launched a watch called the Ultra-Quartz in 1969, it was not completely spared from the quartz crisis. The company was taken over by the Swatch Group in 1983. Today, Longines is known for its Master, Conquest, Spirit, and Heritage collections. Matthias Breschan, who previously worked at Hamilton and Rado, has been CEO of Longines since 2020.
Brand Image: Tradition Meets Innovation
To this day, many people associate Breitling with large “macho” watches with a certain swanky image. Indeed, from the 1980s and into the 2000s, the brand seemed to cultivate precisely this image with eye-catching pilot’s watches, some in two-tone or gold. The fact that Breitling collaborated with the luxury car manufacturer Bentley, for example, and presented watches under the name Breitling for Bentley, further promoted this image. Under the direction of Georges Kern, the brand image has changed substantially since 2017, which is of course also reflected in Breitling’s current collection. Since then, marketing has shifted focus to be more inclusive of women and sustainable. In terms of collabs, the Bentley brand partnership ended and was replaced by social projects, for example in Africa. Brand ambassadors such as Brad Pitt and Charlize Theron also ensure a sophisticated image. As the new “generalist brand” for all watch enthusiasts, Breitling has been increasingly focusing on its history since 2017 and regularly presents fresh timepieces with retro vibes for men and women. This is particularly evident in the Navitimer, Chronomat, and Premier collections.
Longines – Affordable Luxury Watches
Longines has a clean and refined image. The brand is pretty inconspicuous, with no rough edges. This image is certainly enhanced by its links to equestrian sports and tennis. Longines is the official timekeeper for horse races held around the world, such as the Longines Global Champions Tour and Longines Masters of Lausanne. However, the brand’s connection to the International Ski Federation (FIS) highlights a more adventurous side of the brand. Brand ambassadors include British actor Henry Cavill and model Barbara Palvin. At Longines, the focus is on watches for women and men, which is reflected in the wide range of products. Similar to Breitling, Longines’ product catalog consists of a variety of retro models that reinterpret the design of the manufacturer’s earlier timepieces. Longines cultivates an image that bridges tradition and innovation. The brand makes sure that the watches are in the mid-luxury segment but remain affordable.
Most Popular Watches From Breitling and Longines
Breitling’s best-known watch is undoubtedly the Navitimer, which was first presented in 1952. Developed exclusively as a tool watch for professional pilots, this watch has secured a firm place among watch enthusiasts over the decades and is one of the most popular chronographs ever. One of the most authentic variants is the Navitimer 806 1959 Re Edition. Breitling presented the first model in the Premier collection back in 1943. The range consists primarily of functional and elegant chronographs aimed at style-conscious wearers. Top models in the range feature complications such as a tourbillon or split-seconds function. The Premier B01 Chronograph 42 (ref. AB0145331K1P2) with a salmon dial is a decidedly classic model.
Within the Superocean Heritage collection, Breitling offers a wide selection of diving watches that capture the zeitgeist of earlier Superocean variants offered by the manufacturer in the 1950s. In addition to classically designed three-hand watches, the range also includes chronographs. An example of the latter category is the Superocean Heritage II Chronograph B01 (ref. AB0162121G1S1). One of the most popular variants with three hands is the Superocean Heritage B20.
Popular Timepieces From Longines
A popular collection from Longines is the Conquest series, which includes the diving watches from the Hydroconquest collectionfirst presented in 2007. The Hydroconquest ref. L3.742.4.56.6 is the original model that quickly became a favorite among fans of affordable diving watches. Since 2024, Longines has also offered GMT variants of the Hydroconquest, such as the reference L3.890.4.56.6.
The Heritage collection includes a wide range of different Longines watches that focus on the brand’s history. In 2007, the Legend Diver was released; a model that reinterprets a Longines diving watch from 1959. Since then, Longines has introduced a variety of different versions of this watch. The model with the reference number L3.774.4.50.9 is the original variant. The Longines Master collection, presented in 2005, is also popular with fans of the brand. The series primarily consists of chronographs, some of which are equipped with a moon phase. One example is the Bicompax chronograph with the reference number L2.629.4.78.3. The reference L2.673.4.78.3 also has a moon phase display.
Pricing and Value Retention
Breitling positions itself in the upper luxury segment and offers entry-level models starting at a price of around $4,500. It becomes significantly more expensive when precious metals and in-house movements come into play. Value retention varies from model to model. Limited editions of the Navitimer, such as the 806 1959 Re Edition, for example, retain their value well. Longines positions itself with high-quality watches in the affordable luxury segment at prices starting at around $1,700. The brand focuses on providing good value for money, but the value retention is usually worse than with Breitling. Exceptions to this are particularly rare or limited edition models. Neither brand can offer the potential for value appreciation that we know from Rolex, Patek Philippe, or Audemars Piguet timepieces.
Final Thoughts
Our comparison shows: Breitling and Longines serve different price points and market segments and therefore different groups of buyers. While Breitling positions itself in the upper luxury segment, Longines is positioned in the more affordable mid-range. Breitling underlines its high standards with in-house movements such as the caliber B01, which forms the heart of many models. Longines, on the other hand, relies on ETA caliber technology. Like Longines itself, the Swiss movement manufacturer is part of the Swatch Group. However, the calibers are produced exclusively for Longines and are hardly inferior to a manufacture caliber in terms of quality and precision. The level of quality is very high for both brands, even if Breitling may have the edge here – as reflected in the pricing. Whether Breitling or Longines is the better choice ultimately depends on individual preferences, intended use, and you budget.
