Breitling has made a name in the industry for creating watches that belong in the skies. Their complicated pilots’ watches have been essential aviation tools throughout the decades, and their signature slide rule bezel can be used to calculate flight time, fuel consumption, ground speed, and even currency conversions. As you look through the model evolution cataloged below, you’ll see that the technology changes with the times, but the spirit remains the same.
1940s: Datora
The Premier Datora pays tribute to three generations of Breitling inventors—Léon, Gaston, and Willy Breitling—and stands as the brand’s most refined chronograph, featuring a full calendar and moon phase. Willy Breitling described the Premier as an “unmistakable stamp of impeccable taste.” These complete calendar chronographs pack layers of complications into a relatively small package, serving as the smartwatch equivalents of their time. Breitling recently paid homage to these watches through a recently relaunched collection, although we’ll always have a soft spot for the vintage originals.
1943: Premier Ref. 760 + 734
In the early 1940s, Breitling gained prominence by providing precision aviation instruments to the Allies through its Huit Aviation division. As the war neared its end, Willy Breitling identified a growing demand among civilians for elegant, optimistic chronographs, leading to the launch of the Premier collection in 1943. Named for the French word “first,” it established a new benchmark in watchmaking by transitioning functional chronographs from cockpits to everyday life with elevated materials and designs.
1952: Navitimer Ref. 806
1952 was a pivotal year for Breitling. The brand was tasked by the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA) to design a chronograph for its members, resulting in the Navitimer—a groundbreaking wrist-worn flight computer. This innovative watch allowed users to perform key calculations like rate of climb and fuel consumption, making it essential for aviators and a verified icon among pilots’ watches. Now, more than 70 years later, the Navitimer continues to be the top-of-mind watch when discussing Breitling.
1957: SuperOcean Ref. 1004
The demand for divers’ watches surged in the 1950s due to their importance in ocean exploration and aquatic sports. In 1957, Breitling introduced its first dive-watch line, the SuperOcean. By the 1960s, the brand refined its underwater expertise with the SuperOcean Slow Motion (ref. 2005), designed for experienced divers seeking superior performance and legibility. The ref. 1004 (shown here) stands out for its slim profile and mid-century design that leans into style and wearability more than a military connection.
1964: Top Time Ref. 810
Originally introduced in the 1960s, the Top Time was designed to cater to a younger demographic with a selection of ultra-modern chronographs. Its bold proportions and striking dial designs appealed not only to its target audience but also to anyone seeking a statement piece. The collection rapidly evolved into a symbol of self-expression for a vibrant generation, and it continues to play that role within the contemporary Breitling lineup.
1985: Aerospace Ref. 80360
Here we see a 1985 Breitling Aerospace that is rather indicative of the times. Breitling, like many heritage Swiss manufacturers, was struggling financially in the wake of the Quartz Crisis. Thus, the brand embraced not only battery-operated movements but also digital displays with its latest release. The functions include a 1/100th chronograph, alarm, countdown timer, second time zone, and calendar, all controlled via the crown. There’s even a two-tone bezel for that 80s finishing touch.
1995: Emergency Ref. E56021
The Emergency is the world’s first wristwatch to feature a genuine dual-frequency distress beacon, making it an essential safety and survival tool for the adventurous among us. The innovation here lies within the watch’s miniaturization of cockpit signaling tools. When activated, the distress beacon emits an alert signal to facilitate rescue operations. And how cool is it to have a watch with a retractable antenna?
2001: Avenger Ref. A13370
Designed for jet pilots, the Avenger is built to withstand the toughest cockpit conditions while performing its horological duties. The watch echoes the large watch trend of the early 2000s. So, you don’t need to be a Top Gun graduate to enjoy this watch, however, at 48mm in diameter, you will need an aircraft carrier-sized wrist to wear it comfortably.
2005: Bentley 6.75
Watch and automotive collaborations are nothing new, as we’ve seen brands like Mercedes, Aston Martin, Rolls-Royce, Ferrari, and Bugatti collaborate on special edition watches. The original Breitling Bentley collection was composed of watches with characteristic knurled bezels reminiscent of Bentley’s radiator grilles. The watches remain some of the most idiosyncratic creations in Breitling’s archives.
2020: Endurance Pro
Featuring an ultra-light Breitlight case—3.3 times lighter than titanium and 5.8 times lighter than stainless steel—the Endurance Pro is non-magnetic, thermally stable, hypoallergenic, and highly scratch-resistant. It’s often as colorful as it is durable, and it gives consumers a luxury brand connection in a watch that doesn’t need to be babied.
